Sunday, 20 June 2010

Surf dude




This a real surer taken from the cliff above Gwynver beach as I was checking out the opposition.

I finally got around to taking a surfing lesson and it definitely makes me want to try again although I had to have a kip after. The main worry was the other surf dudes who did not look in control of their pointy boards whilst I splashed around in the shallows with my egghead in danger of being cracked. Needless to say I couldn't shift my great heaving mass into a standing position but will try again tomorrow. I did say the same in Santa Cruz a decade ago though. The surf school were excellent and said I could use their boards anytime as a local which mad me feel wanted. These are huge 8 foot foam 'swelly' boards which even a creaking lump of lard can float around on. Some big surf and lots of falling off but after two hours I think I am ready to go it alone. Sam Smart runs the surf centre from the chip shop in the cove and not only is he a pro surfer but he is a pro boxer as well. Beating someone up in Plymouth last night but fracturing his jaw meant his young apprentice Jake took myself and two others into the waves. I should have learnt when I arrived as they were really friendly and a font of local knowledge. It is fine to spear fish and take the spider crabs I have seen so often and the various rips and currents were explained. My moment of realisation that I may not be able to compete with the local lads who are surf obsessives came as Jake said, 'its never too late to learn.' The surf ego landed but the search goes on..

I did manage to come second this morning in the Deloitte Ride Across Britain and was cheered home down the finishing straight at Lands End and congratulated by the winner James Cracknell. He came from John O Groats and I came from Sennen. He has thighs like bratwurst. I thought it was funny anyway, but in retrospect ...

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