A wonderful walk from Sennen follows the coast toward Lands End and on to Porthcurno which takes about three hours and is 6 miles up and down the cliffside. Once past the carbuncle of Lands End you are usually alone until Porthgwarra unless you count the seals which can be seen if you look closely in the bays. Lolling like oily logs they can be seen sunning themselves idly and patience is rewarded as they are spied occasionally when their snouts pop out to check out their area. These pauses to stand and stare increase as your mood lifts with the magnificence of the view, each one more spectacular than the last until you climb the cliff to the Minack theatre and peer over the edge to the wonder that is Porthcurno.
A series of small coves with steep hillsides heavily scented with may and gorse such as Porthgwarra provide rest stops. Fisherman still use the coves despite their inaccessibility, the waters must give access to rich fishing grounds for the hardy. I saw a pod of dolphins from the cliff above this cove leaping after each other heading out to sea. In late May the basking sharks return which is worth the walk alone and a coastal watch station is open on Gwennap Head during the summer months. They are looking volunteers to help them with their audit of seabirds and marine life. Must have patience and a good set of peelers. The eerie bell of the deadly runnel stone rocks warns unsuspecting sailors of the dangers of these waters. The rip-tides and currents can be seen from the safety of the headlands and there are not too many pleasure crafts to be spotted apart from intrepid kayakers or the marine day trippers from Penzance.
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